Tweed on the flooring, tweed on the seats, tweed on the invites, tweed printing on the walls, and tweed on the models. There was no absence of the material at the Chanel runways show today. Reminiscent of Scotland’s River Tweed, it was a nod the house’s iconic founder Gabrielle, who would take walks through the Scottish countryside. “She would gather ferns and bouquets of flowers to inspire the local artisans for the tones she wanted,” shares Virginie Viard in house notes.
“Devoting the entire collection to tweed is a tribute,” continues Viard. “We followed the footsteps of Gabrielle Chanel along the River Tweed, to imagine tweeds in the colors of this landscape. Like that of a long pink coat mottled with blue and purple, or a burgundy suit with a delicate gold shimmer.”
Held at the Grand Palais Éphémère in the 7th arrondissement, the room was filled with people from all over the world, many in their own Chanel tweed. Sitting in the audience was Israeli actress and lead actress in Apple TV’s Tehra, Niv Sultan. And, Egyptian actress Tara Emad. It’s a collection fitting for the colder months to come at the end of the year. Jacquards with the Scottish material fill the collection, yet in psychedelic colors. Viard endeavored to make silhouettes oversized with a hint of masculinity. Pants are done in black panne velvet, fitting skirts are matched with long socks, and thigh-high boots are done in black or beige rubber.
But why all this tweed? It comes from Gabrielle’s long affair with the Duke of Westminster. Wearing his jackets created her own love for the material and the region that birthed it. “Of course, I’m fascinated by this ever-contemporary gesture. And it’s Chanel that renders the tweed feminine,” says the creative director. So, when she took to her vision for the collection, Viard had England in the 1960s on her mind, “and colorful record covers,” she emphasizes.