On the last day of Paris Fashion Week, under the Grand Palais Éphémère, CHANEL presented its Fall-Winter 2022/23 Ready-to-Wear collection, a marvelous ode to tweed. The day before, the most beautiful invitation of the fashion sphere and the teaser of the show shot by Dutch duo photographers Inez Van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin had already given the tone.
Then, comes the decor of the show: tweed is everywhere and in every color from light brown to black or white on tweed-upholstered seats and on the walls, a touch of pop color on the Chanel initials. In the middle, the runway is light green as a reference to the River Tweed in Scotland.
The river flows east across the Scottish Borders into Northern England.
“We followed the footsteps of Gabrielle Chanel along the River Tweed, to imagine tweeds in the colours of this landscape” said Virginie Viard. Gabrielle Chanel discovered tweed in the early 1920s when she borrowed the oversized jackets of her lover, Hugh Grosvenor, the Duke of Westminster. “There’s nothing sexier than wearing the clothes of the person you love,” added Virginie Viard.
CHANEL made tweed feminine and became the eternal signature of the House with its iconic tweed suit launched in 1954. Gabrielle Chanel loved the Scottish countryside and during her long walks there, she gathered flowers and green plants as a reference to the color tones and fabrics she wanted from the local Harris Tweed weavers.
On Tuesday March 8, the show was very emotional and so was the music. Models walked through the Beatles’ song “A day in the life” and its first sentence “I read the news today, oh Boy”, a reminder of the dramatic current situation. Chanel, that day, as always, offered a parenthesis of enchantment in this world.
Virginie Viard brings “ce je ne sais quoi” of French elegance. The silhouettes from the Chanel Fall Winter Collection offer a spectrum of feminity from a boyish tweed suit with contrasted pockets, worn with rubber Wellington boots, decorated with a double C. The it boot of the next Fall season.
In the collection, Creative Director Virginie Viard used the full range of shades from psychedelic pinks, purples, greens to heather tones for winter walks in the countryside, the color palettes of a misty morning.
There is a graphic Prince of Wales check tweed jacket with a standing collar, fluid shimmering lamé trousers, a short dress embroidered with constellations of giant sequins worn with long socks and pointed pumps with mini stiletto heels in patent leather. Models walk through the soundtrack Spencer by Johnny Greenwood, one of the songs of the biopic on Princess Diana. There is an aristocratic British spirit running through the collection, it is moody but so glamorous.
Tweed is an attitude, tweed is a precious texture and the epitome of Chanel. A Chanel show full of deep emotions.