The House of Gucci is a sad, tragic film. Beyond the obvious star-studded cast, the film tells the sad tale of a toxic family that couldn’t get along, fighting for shares, undercutting each other’s talents, making it a box office topping fashion gangster film.
Lady Gaga plays Patrizia Reggiani, the ex-wife of Maurizio Gucci, who hired a hitman to assassinate her estranged husband (Reggiani is now 72, and served 18 years in prison before being released in 2016). As she once said: “Power can be like a sickness for the Guccis.”
Adam Driver stars as Maurizio alongside Jared Leto as the eccentric, checkered suit-wearing Paolo Gucci. Directed by Ridley Scott, the Gucci label has lent items from its archive to the costume designer.
The film’s costume designer Janty Yates recently said the art team borrowed several vintage from the Gucci archive that captured the 1970s and 1980s face of the brand.
As a result, online secondhand clothing apps like 1stdibs, Vestiaire, Poshmark and Etsy are popping with vintage Gucci from the Tom Ford era, thanks to the new film (the @tomfordforgucci Instagram account is also helping trace key pieces from the period). In London, too, retail outlet Asda has selected 30 vintage Gucci items across 50 of their U.K. Georges at Asda boutiques, as part of the worldwide vintage Gucci craze that will take hold this winter.
One of the most iconic pieces is an outfit worn by Gaga in the film: a two-piece patterned logo set with leather trimming she wears while visiting a market selling knockoffs. In other scenes, we see horsebit loafers in buttercream yellow designed by Aldo Guci in 1953, alongside Gucci Brixton vintage leather loafers. There are key pieces that were designed by Rodolfo Gucci, like arty scarves he created for Grace Kelly, as well as the Fifties Constance bag, which was named for Jackie Onassis.
At it’s best, this film is a dream for vintage Gucci freaks, looking back to the 1970s and 1980s for key pieces to snag today on secondhand websites, as it features a number of Gucci handbags throughout the film, including the Gucci Jackie vintage cloth handbag, the Gucci Jackie Bardot vintage handbag, among others.
Not all of it was from the actual house of Gucci, however. Yates apparently bought a large amount of Gucci online, like on eBay and Vestiaire Collective, to show the director. Even a few pieces were on loan from Gaga’s own personal closet. According to some experts, it is difficult to find vintage Gucci pieces that come before Tom Ford was designing for the brand from 1990 to 2004.
As Yates explains, she turned to the Museo Gucci in Florence for inspiration, as the brand was founded in Florence in 1921. “I think Gucci is a wonderful company—brilliant belts, brilliant footwear and bags—but their fashion at the time was conservative,” she said. “When Tom Ford came around, he cut through it like a hot knife through butter, and that’s when it became so sexy, it was ridiculous. I don’t think ready-to-wear was Gucci’s forte at the time.”