Opening today, Paris auction house Christie’s presents an edit of work by contemporary designers, in collaboration with Second Petale gallery, as part of the Joaillerie Paris online auction. The second Jewellery Talents of Today curation features Bare by Dries Criel, Luz Camino, MAD Joaillerie, Marie Mas, Rosior and Walid Akkad, alongside vintage jewels by Jean Fouquet, Suzanne Belperron and Cartier, available to buy until December 14.
“I wanted to create a meaningful opportunity for both audience and designers, I see it as my role as the curator to create the opportunities, to be the bridge that connects the collector and the artist,” says Second Petale Gallery Founder and Curator Arina Pouzoullic, about the Jewellery Talents of Today initiative, the first edition of which saw work by Sarah Ho, Kayo Saito, Ulla and Martin Kaufman, Tomasz Donocik and Chiara Passoni go on sale in June, alongside pieces of jewelry by some of the world’s biggest houses. “The audience wants to see things they’ve never seen before and learn more about art, and brands need a relevant, qualitative clientele and broad exposure. It’s an unmatched opportunity for the designer.”
At a time when newer artists are increasingly sharing the bill with more established names – see the recent Force of Nature exhibition in London – and collectors are showing as much interest in talented emerging artists as they are the latest offerings from the heritage houses, Jewellery Talents of Today provides a significant platform for contemporary designers. The winter cohort showing during this second edition will benefit from the reach of Christie’s global audience, which for the summer event came to 10,480 visits from 38 countries, resulting in 89% of lots sold. Meanwhile, collectors can access a diverse list of contemporary designers on an upwards trajectory.
According to Mafalda Chenu, jewelry specialist at Christie’s Paris, the six jewelry artists were hand-picked for their fresh vision: “Our selection criteria were multiple: unique designs, strong artistic identity, excellence in craftsmanship, timeless and relevance of designs beyond geographical boundaries.” “And then we listen to our feelings, we look for flair” adds Pouzoullic, “on a personal level, each time I choose a work, I covet it because it resonates or challenges me.”
“Art should encourage you to elevate. A piece of jewelry is art in miniature, the soul of the craftsmen go into this tiny thing that creates an emotional response,” says Pouzoullic. “A purchase is not only a personal pleasure, but also an investment in the artist’s practice.” In endorsing the designers below, Christie’s is promoting contemporary jewelry art to the global art market and holding their work up for industry endorsement. And as one of the artists who took part in the summer edition says, “you can create the most beautiful jewels in the world, but if nobody can see it, it’s pointless. Art needs to be on a stage and Christie’s is one of the best stages in the world.”
BARE by Dries Criel
This former dancer creates bold, genderless jewelry inspired by travel, architecture and art. Handcrafted in Antwerp and worn by Lady Gaga, his jewels are contemporary conversation-starters. The curators chose a set of three rings for the Jewellery Talents of Today selection, in gold, diamonds, titanium and enamel.
Estimate: €8,000 – €12,000
A Master Jeweler whose work is at the V&A Museum in London and the Museum of Art & Design in New York, Camino creates one-of-a-kind and limited edition pieces inspired by nature, leveraging new materials to create rare jewelry art. Her Iris Petale earrings feature detachable amethyst drops on enamel, diamond and amethyst petals.
Estimate: €10,000 – €15,000
Award-winning designer Alix Dumas went big when she launched her own jewelry line in 2020, after five years at the bench for one of the world’s foremost jewelry artists. Her striking jewelry is characterized by bold shapes and strong use of color, like the Night Eternity ring, in gold, responsibly sourced Sri Lankan sapphires and diamonds.
Estimate: €12,000 – €18,000
Known for her kinetic jewelry, Marie Cabirou’s work challenges traditional notions of jewelry, while remaining supremely wearable. After cutting her teeth alongside Raf Simmons at Maison Christian Dior Couture, Cabirou started her own brand in 2015 and has since grown a following for her patented jewels. She’s showing the Imperial Wave earrings, whose diamonds branches are mobile and can be worn pointing up or down.
Estimate: €15,000 – €20,000
Founded in 1978, Rosior was built upon a century’s worth of family goldsmithing expertise to become one of Portugal’s best-known high jewelry houses. Jewels are produced end-to-end in the company’s own workshops, with a focus on vibrant color. In sapphires and emeralds, the Leaf earrings were created by the house’s founder José Manuel Rosa, who passed away in 2020.
Estimate: €10,000 – €15,000
This former Place Vendôme jeweler channels his minimalist vision of luxury into finely hand-crafted, architectural jewelry. His starting point is often the color of the gemstones he uses to accentuate the movement of a piece, like the gold and tsavorite bracelet on sale, produced with the support of master smelters, polishers, gem-cutters and setters.
Estimate: €20,000 – €30,000