Day 1 to 7 of diaspora reporter’s notebook


Overview:

Fritznel D. Octave, Haiti editor at The Haitian Occasions, displays on his first return to the nation in eight years. In Half 2, Octave recounts the stark contrasts of his homeland.

Editor’s be aware: That is the second of three installments about this journey collection. See the first half right here.

CAP-HAITIEN — As somebody who handles the nitty-gritty of reports coming from Haiti every day, the very first thing that struck me as I stepped onto the soil for the primary time in eight years wasn’t worry or chaos, however familiarity. It’s the quiet absurdity of goats trotting throughout the highway outdoors Cap-Haïtien’s airport, the damaged fences swaying within the breeze, and the hum of life carrying on as if nothing had modified.

Besides many issues had. From the coastal plains swallowed by Hurricane Melissa’s floods, to the steep hills of Bombardopolis, the place kids pump water for minutes earlier than a single drop comes out, to rural communities the place collapsing shacks stand simply steps away from luxurious ‘mansions,’ the nation reveals itself in stark contrasts. That duality, the peculiar and the insufferable layered on high of one another, outlined the opening stretch of my 13-day journey throughout 4 departments. 

These notes are journey observations that intently observe this pressure —a window right into a homeland bent below disaster, however by no means damaged. This installment relays Days 1 via 7, tracing my steps from Cap-Haïtien to Bombardopolis, via battered roads between Gonaïves and Baie-de-Henne within the Artibonite.

Land in Cap-Haïtien, make Gonaïves by dusk

Day 1 — Monday, October 27 

Cap-Haïtien felt unchanged upon arrival, with the airport’s damaged fences and goats crossing the road. Not so Gonaïves. The Metropolis of Independence feels reworked, even within the pitch-black of night time. It vibrates with noise and motion, as moto-taxis and pedestrians weave via unlit streets with out hesitation. 

The haphazard constructions on the heights of Morne Biennac and Morne Blanc communicate volumes.

  • Motorcycle drivers, carrying passengers and their belongings, encounter an SUV using the same lane of a narrow road in Bassin, an extension of Gonaïves in Artibonite, on Tuesday, October 28, 2025. Photo by Fritznel D. Octave/The Haitian Times
  • A police officer helplessly watches, while directing traffic on Monday, October 27, 2025, as goats cross the street and walk alongside cars near Cap-Haïtien’s Hugo Chavez International Airport. Photo by Fritznel D. Octave/The Haitian Times
  • An officer from the tourist protection unit of the Haitian National Police (Politour) does a routine check of cars entering the departure area of Cap-Haïtien’s Hugo Chavez International Airport on Monday, October 27, 2025. He is known in the town as ‘Le plus haut,’ French for ‘The tallest man,’ because of his height and especially slim appearance. Photo by Fritznel D. Octave/The Haitian Times
  • The building that serves as the premier reception area for foreign diplomats and missions upon their arrival at Cap-Haitien’s Hugo Chavez International Airport. Photo by Fritznel D. Octave/The Haitian Times
  • First steps on Haitian soil after landing in Cap-Haïtien’s Hugo Chavez International Airport on Monday, October 27, 2025. Photo by Fritznel D. Octave/The Haitian Times

Residents support mom of quadruplets in disaster

Day 2 — Tuesday, October 28

After a near-sleepless night time—disrupted by loud music, birds and roosters singing, donkeys braying and preachers and singers blaring their messages into the streets—I awoke in Gonaïves. That day, I met Sandra Saint-Louis, a 32-year-old single mom of 4 10-month-old kids, throughout a prayer service at Rapha Ministry, a neighborhood church.

Child components alone prices 3,500 gourdes, about $27, each two days. So she depends on donations from neighbors, close by communities, mates overseas and church buildings. This was Saint-Louis’ second go to to the church and she or he shared how robust issues have been for her with the rising value of dwelling. 

Saint-Louis is a local of Plaisance, a commune within the North Division, about 33 miles from Gonaïves. She had married Nicodème Pierre, a younger pastor from Cité-Soleil, Port-au-Prince, whom she met via a WhatsApp prayer group in 2022. The couple later moved to a group in southern Haiti to serve a neighborhood church, she advised The Haitian Times. 

“In Petit Anse, the one water supply is a rainwater cistern constructed by NGOs with funding from the Inter-American Financial institution.”

Sobnès Jean, instructor and group venture supervisor

Quickly after, Saint-Louis had quadruplets at a Docs With out Borders (MSF) hospital in Port-à-Piment, with two delivered by cesarean beginning. No native or nationwide authorities offered assist to the younger household. In the meantime, the couple fought over the stress, shared duties and abuse. Pierre then left.

“It’s been over eight months now,” she stated. “I haven’t heard from him since then.”

The church took up a particular providing for her upon studying of her hardship.

Brutal journey to Bombardopolis

Day 3 Wednesday, October 29 

From Gonaïves to the decrease northwest area, what ought to have been a three-hour journey to Bombardopolis, roughly 58 miles west, stretched to almost 9 hours. Hurricane Melissa pushed seawater far inland, swallowing the highway in Grande Savanne, a coastal group close to Anse-Rouge within the sprawling Artibonite. Residents waded into waist-deep waters to push automobiles to strong floor.

Google Maps displays the distance and estimated travel time under typical Haitian road conditions from Gonaïves to Bombardopolis, a commune along Haiti's northwestern coast.
Google Maps shows the space and estimated journey time below typical Haitian highway circumstances from Gonaïves to Bombardopolis, a commune alongside Haiti’s northwestern coast.

Our truck broke down simply as we arrived within the Bombardopolis city heart, lug nuts damaged and all falling off the rear tire.

A truck battling an Artibonite highway flooded by Hurricane Melissa round Grande Savanne on Wednesday, October 29, 2025. Video by Fritznel D. Octave/The Haitian Occasions 

After crossing the underwater part of the highway, lower than a mile into the flooded space, three males had been begging for assist to jump-start their SUV, needing manpower to push the guide transmission automobile and get the engine operating.

A story of two houses

Day 4 Thursday, October 30

I met Kenny Anassy, a father of 5 dwelling in a collapsing one-room shack, paying slightly below $40 a yr in hire—an unaffordable quantity, nonetheless. Subsequent door, development was underway on a gleaming 6-bedroom residence bankrolled by a diaspora.

Haiti’s inequalities are apparent in concrete blocks, sheet steel and roofs, and in satellite tv for pc dishes, solar-powered electrical energy, TV cable networks, Web and telecom providers—not in statistics.

L-R: Kenny Anassy, a father of five in Bombardopolis, stands by his home—a small, dilapidated shack he rents for 5,000 gourdes, about $40 a year—on Thursday, October 30, 2025. He spoke about his hardships, the social and economic struggles of caring for his family. Photo by Fritznel D. Octave/The Haitian Times | The left side of a property under construction next to a ramshackle home, highlighting wealth disparities in Bombardopolis, seen across Haiti. Photo by Fritznel D. Octave/The Haitian Times
L-R: Kenny Anassy, a father of 5 in Bombardopolis, stands by his residence—a small, dilapidated shack he rents for five,000 gourdes, about $40 a yr—on Thursday, October 30, 2025. He spoke about his hardships, the social and financial struggles of caring for his household. Photograph by Fritznel D. Octave/The Haitian Occasions | The left facet of a property below development subsequent to a ramshackle residence, highlighting wealth disparities in Bombardopolis, seen throughout Haiti. Photograph by Fritznel D. Octave/The Haitian Occasions

Youngsters pumping water

Day 5 Friday, October 31

Two younger ladies labored a guide pump for almost two minutes earlier than a single drop flowed. Clear ingesting water stays a every day battle.

Two ladies in Bombardopolis flip a water pump’s handles to fill their containers, an endeavor that takes them almost two minutes of nonstop cranking for the primary drop of water to circulate, on Friday, October 31, 2025. Video by Fritznel D. Octave/The Haitian Occasions

Modifications in Desforges and Plaine d’Orange— a area reshaped after twenty years

Day 6— Saturday, November 1

My return to Desforges and Plaine d’Orange—the 2nd and third Bombardopolis communal sections—after almost 20 years revealed adjustments far past what I anticipated on this distant a part of the area. Areas that when required hours of strolling—or journey on a donkey or mule—are actually accessible by SUVs and vehicles. A number of tough pathways that beforehand served solely foot site visitors have been widened or bolstered sufficient for automobiles to move, despite the fact that some stretches seem narrower than I remembered from the early 2000s.

Probably the most notable shift, nonetheless, is in schooling. After I final visited in 2008, solely a few excessive colleges served the 2 communal sections, and reaching them was troublesome for many households. I might rely on one hand the variety of houses constructed with concrete blocks from basis to roof. At the moment, there are greater than a dozen secondary colleges throughout the area, each private and non-private. Crève, a group that has grown considerably due to diaspora investments, particularly in actual property and development, is now an accredited official examination website. This permits college students to take nationwide exams regionally relatively than journey lengthy distances to neighboring communes.

Environmental adjustments are additionally evident. The extent of reforestation throughout the plateau is spectacular, with giant areas that had been as soon as naked now exhibiting vital tree cowl. Residents credit score the advance to a mixture of community-led planting initiatives, small-scale environmental packages, moto-taxis as an alternative choice to charcoal manufacturing by cash-strapped people and a few diaspora-funded tasks. Whatever the supply, the result’s a transparent shift within the panorama and a uncommon instance of progress in a area the place authorities funding stays minimal.

Taken collectively, the infrastructural entry, expanded instructional services and reforested terrain paint an image of a rural space present process gradual however significant enchancment—whilst many different elements of Haiti face mounting instability.

A woman in Crève, Bombardopolis’ Plaine d’Orange, talks on the phone in the afternoon of Saturday, November 1, 2025, from the rooftop of her house, where she can get a stronger signal but also enjoy a breath of fresh air blowing in from the surrounding mountains of the plateau covered with trees. Photo by Fritznel D. Octave/The Haitian Times.
A lady in Crève, Bombardopolis’ Plaine d’Orange, talks on the cellphone within the afternoon of Saturday, November 1, 2025, from the rooftop of her home, the place she will be able to get a stronger sign but in addition take pleasure in a breath of recent air blowing in from the encircling mountains of the plateau lined with timber. Photograph by Fritznel D. Octave/The Haitian Occasions.

The forgotten coast: Baie-de-Henne and Petit Anse

Day 7Sunday, November 2

Flooding, destroyed roads, unfinished authorities tasks and struggling fishing communities line the shoreline.

 “In Petit Anse, the one water supply is a rainwater cistern constructed by NGOs with funding from the Inter-American Financial institution,” native instructor and group venture supervisor, Sobnès Jean, stated. 

In the meantime, inside Baie-de-Henne city heart, the police station is almost deserted.

Sobnès Jean shows the rainwater cistern in Petit Anse, Baie-de-Henne, on Sunday, November 2, 2025, while highlighting the community’s other urgent needs, including healthcare and infrastructure for critical socioeconomic activities. Photo by Fritznel D. Octave/The Haitian Times.
Sobnès Jean exhibits the rainwater cistern in Petit Anse, Baie-de-Henne, on Sunday, November 2, 2025, whereas highlighting the group’s different pressing wants, together with healthcare and infrastructure for important socioeconomic actions. Photograph by Fritznel D. Octave/The Haitian Occasions.

However the panorama, turquoise shoreline towards barren hills, is beautiful.



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