Overview:
Fritznel D. Octave, Haiti editor at The Haitian Occasions, displays on his first return to the nation in eight years. In Half 2, Octave recounts the stark contrasts of his homeland.
Editor’s be aware: That is the second of three installments about this journey collection. See the first half right here.
CAP-HAITIEN — As somebody who handles the nitty-gritty of reports coming from Haiti every day, the very first thing that struck me as I stepped onto the soil for the primary time in eight years wasn’t worry or chaos, however familiarity. It’s the quiet absurdity of goats trotting throughout the highway outdoors Cap-Haïtien’s airport, the damaged fences swaying within the breeze, and the hum of life carrying on as if nothing had modified.
Besides many issues had. From the coastal plains swallowed by Hurricane Melissa’s floods, to the steep hills of Bombardopolis, the place kids pump water for minutes earlier than a single drop comes out, to rural communities the place collapsing shacks stand simply steps away from luxurious ‘mansions,’ the nation reveals itself in stark contrasts. That duality, the peculiar and the insufferable layered on high of one another, outlined the opening stretch of my 13-day journey throughout 4 departments.
These notes are journey observations that intently observe this pressure —a window right into a homeland bent below disaster, however by no means damaged. This installment relays Days 1 via 7, tracing my steps from Cap-Haïtien to Bombardopolis, via battered roads between Gonaïves and Baie-de-Henne within the Artibonite.
Land in Cap-Haïtien, make Gonaïves by dusk
Day 1 — Monday, October 27
Cap-Haïtien felt unchanged upon arrival, with the airport’s damaged fences and goats crossing the road. Not so Gonaïves. The Metropolis of Independence feels reworked, even within the pitch-black of night time. It vibrates with noise and motion, as moto-taxis and pedestrians weave via unlit streets with out hesitation.
The haphazard constructions on the heights of Morne Biennac and Morne Blanc communicate volumes.
Residents support mom of quadruplets in disaster
Day 2 — Tuesday, October 28
After a near-sleepless night time—disrupted by loud music, birds and roosters singing, donkeys braying and preachers and singers blaring their messages into the streets—I awoke in Gonaïves. That day, I met Sandra Saint-Louis, a 32-year-old single mom of 4 10-month-old kids, throughout a prayer service at Rapha Ministry, a neighborhood church.
Child components alone prices 3,500 gourdes, about $27, each two days. So she depends on donations from neighbors, close by communities, mates overseas and church buildings. This was Saint-Louis’ second go to to the church and she or he shared how robust issues have been for her with the rising value of dwelling.
Saint-Louis is a local of Plaisance, a commune within the North Division, about 33 miles from Gonaïves. She had married Nicodème Pierre, a younger pastor from Cité-Soleil, Port-au-Prince, whom she met via a WhatsApp prayer group in 2022. The couple later moved to a group in southern Haiti to serve a neighborhood church, she advised The Haitian Times.
“In Petit Anse, the one water supply is a rainwater cistern constructed by NGOs with funding from the Inter-American Financial institution.”
Sobnès Jean, instructor and group venture supervisor
Quickly after, Saint-Louis had quadruplets at a Docs With out Borders (MSF) hospital in Port-à-Piment, with two delivered by cesarean beginning. No native or nationwide authorities offered assist to the younger household. In the meantime, the couple fought over the stress, shared duties and abuse. Pierre then left.
“It’s been over eight months now,” she stated. “I haven’t heard from him since then.”
The church took up a particular providing for her upon studying of her hardship.
Brutal journey to Bombardopolis
Day 3 — Wednesday, October 29
From Gonaïves to the decrease northwest area, what ought to have been a three-hour journey to Bombardopolis, roughly 58 miles west, stretched to almost 9 hours. Hurricane Melissa pushed seawater far inland, swallowing the highway in Grande Savanne, a coastal group close to Anse-Rouge within the sprawling Artibonite. Residents waded into waist-deep waters to push automobiles to strong floor.

Our truck broke down simply as we arrived within the Bombardopolis city heart, lug nuts damaged and all falling off the rear tire.
After crossing the underwater part of the highway, lower than a mile into the flooded space, three males had been begging for assist to jump-start their SUV, needing manpower to push the guide transmission automobile and get the engine operating.
A story of two houses
Day 4 — Thursday, October 30
I met Kenny Anassy, a father of 5 dwelling in a collapsing one-room shack, paying slightly below $40 a yr in hire—an unaffordable quantity, nonetheless. Subsequent door, development was underway on a gleaming 6-bedroom residence bankrolled by a diaspora.
Haiti’s inequalities are apparent in concrete blocks, sheet steel and roofs, and in satellite tv for pc dishes, solar-powered electrical energy, TV cable networks, Web and telecom providers—not in statistics.

Youngsters pumping water
Day 5 — Friday, October 31
Two younger ladies labored a guide pump for almost two minutes earlier than a single drop flowed. Clear ingesting water stays a every day battle.
Modifications in Desforges and Plaine d’Orange— a area reshaped after twenty years
Day 6— Saturday, November 1
My return to Desforges and Plaine d’Orange—the 2nd and third Bombardopolis communal sections—after almost 20 years revealed adjustments far past what I anticipated on this distant a part of the area. Areas that when required hours of strolling—or journey on a donkey or mule—are actually accessible by SUVs and vehicles. A number of tough pathways that beforehand served solely foot site visitors have been widened or bolstered sufficient for automobiles to move, despite the fact that some stretches seem narrower than I remembered from the early 2000s.
Probably the most notable shift, nonetheless, is in schooling. After I final visited in 2008, solely a few excessive colleges served the 2 communal sections, and reaching them was troublesome for many households. I might rely on one hand the variety of houses constructed with concrete blocks from basis to roof. At the moment, there are greater than a dozen secondary colleges throughout the area, each private and non-private. Crève, a group that has grown considerably due to diaspora investments, particularly in actual property and development, is now an accredited official examination website. This permits college students to take nationwide exams regionally relatively than journey lengthy distances to neighboring communes.
Environmental adjustments are additionally evident. The extent of reforestation throughout the plateau is spectacular, with giant areas that had been as soon as naked now exhibiting vital tree cowl. Residents credit score the advance to a mixture of community-led planting initiatives, small-scale environmental packages, moto-taxis as an alternative choice to charcoal manufacturing by cash-strapped people and a few diaspora-funded tasks. Whatever the supply, the result’s a transparent shift within the panorama and a uncommon instance of progress in a area the place authorities funding stays minimal.
Taken collectively, the infrastructural entry, expanded instructional services and reforested terrain paint an image of a rural space present process gradual however significant enchancment—whilst many different elements of Haiti face mounting instability.

The forgotten coast: Baie-de-Henne and Petit Anse
Day 7 — Sunday, November 2
Flooding, destroyed roads, unfinished authorities tasks and struggling fishing communities line the shoreline.
“In Petit Anse, the one water supply is a rainwater cistern constructed by NGOs with funding from the Inter-American Financial institution,” native instructor and group venture supervisor, Sobnès Jean, stated.
In the meantime, inside Baie-de-Henne city heart, the police station is almost deserted.

However the panorama, turquoise shoreline towards barren hills, is beautiful.
Keep tuned for half three, the ultimate installment of the restricted journey collection.














